The robes worn by emperors at coronations, weddings, rituals and other important occasions are one of the most intricate outfits in the Chinese history, using the best textiles and techniques of sophistication. 古代君王在加冕、大婚、祭祀和其他重要场合上的着装一般被大家笼统地称作“龙袍”。品质上乘的布料经由能工巧匠一道道的打磨，最终呈现的不仅是一件衣裳，更是精良的艺术品。 ▲《乾隆皇帝朝服像》故宫藏 (今天不是动图，可放心食用。） You will find several fine examples of this important category of clothing at two exhibitions, Hall of Great Treasures and Ancient Chinese Culture: Costume and Adornment, at the National Museum of China. 我们在影视剧看了不少道具“龙袍”。想看真正的皇袍么？目前正在国博举行的《金玉满堂》和《中国古代服饰文化展》就能满足你的愿望。 ▲《金玉满堂》展上的沈阳故宫藏皇袍 摄影：余冠辰 Emperors' robes are often woven with a variety of motifs symbolizing majesty, superiority and auspiciousness. You may find it complicated to distinguish one from another in meaning. Well I hope today's post will be of some help for you. 说到皇帝身穿的袍子，大家首先能想到的可能就是衣服上繁复的装饰图案，这些图案代表着皇权的至高无上和各种祝福，令人眼花缭乱。今天的帖子就稍微帮大家缕一缕部分纹样具体代表的意思。 ▲ 康熙御用朝衣 国博藏 展出于《中国古代服饰文化展》 We are often taken back at first sight by the large dragons on an emperor's robe. In addition to that, there are another group of important patterns, called the "12 symbols of sovereignty". 当我们面对一件皇袍，最夺人眼球的莫过于几个显著的龙纹了。除此以外也很重要的就是被称作“十二章纹”的纹样。 The appearance of such symbols representing virtues and powers can be traced to the Zhou Dynasty (c.11th century-256 BC). Emperors, nobles and high-ranking officials wore sacrificial robes featuring the symbols but with distinctions in number. “十二章纹”代表了世间所有的美德和权力，出现的时间可以追溯到周朝。据记载，当时的天子和公卿在祭祀上的着装上都有这样的章纹，不过依据等级而数量有所不同。 ▲ 《皇朝礼器图》国博藏 展出于《中国古代服饰文化展》 In Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), the symbols became exclusive to the emperors. Each of the 12 symbols is imbued with different meanings. 到了清代, “十二章纹”则成为了皇帝的专利；每一个纹样都被赋予了各自的涵义。 Those that can be easily spotted include the sun and the full moon, normally on the shoulders. 其中比较好辩认的有绣在双肩位置的日纹和月纹。 Usually, the sun symbol depicts the three-foot bird in the Chinese mythology in the circle, and the moon symbol shows the Jade Rabbit pounds the elixir of life, under a laurel tree. 代表太阳的章纹一般会在中间绣上神鸟三足金乌，而满月纹里绣着月桂树下捣药的玉兔。 ▲ 星辰纹 You will also find a constellation of stars, another symbol, above the large dragon at the center of the robe's front. 代表星辰的花纹一般绣在袍子正中那条大龙的上面，三颗或者五颗星星连成一线。 The mountain symbol represents stability. The symbol of a pair of dragons means divinity and capability to transform. 山纹代表稳重稳定；双龙纹代表神异变幻。 ▲ 火纹 Fire symbolizes luminosity and also implies a ruler's intellectual brilliance. 火纹代表明亮，也寓意君王的聪慧。 Then come some motifs unfamiliar to many of us. 还有一些章纹很有意思，所包含的意思可能不太好猜。 ▲ 华虫纹 A pheasant, sometimes a pair, symbolizes a ruler's incredible literary grace. 这是华虫纹，有时候会绣一对。华虫指的就是雉鸡，寓意有文采。 ▲宗彝纹 A pair of wine vessels used at sacrificial ceremonies symbolizes filial piety. On the goblets there are depictions of a tiger, or a lion, on one, representing strength and a monkey on another, representing cleverness. 宗彝是古代祭祀用的酒器，宗彝纹代表孝养。一般绣的一对宗彝，一只上有代表力量的老虎或者狮子，另一只上有代表聪颖的猴子。 ▲ 海藻纹 The seaweed symbol means purity, and the rice grain symbol means fertility. 还有代表纯粹洁净的海藻纹和代表滋养丰收的粉米纹。 ▲ 粉米纹 The axe head symbol stands for an ability to be decisive. 下面这个叫黼(fǔ)，斧头状花纹，代表决断力。 ▲ 黼纹 The "fu" pattern signifies a ruler can tell right from wrong and good from evil. 跟斧头纹配对的是黻(fú或fù)，这个纹饰寓意明辨对错、背恶向善。 ▲ 黻纹 Some of the robes on show have all the 12 symbols. I spent much time trying to recognize all of them but failed. Wish you a good luck when you have a try. 不是所有的皇袍都集齐十二个章纹。为了这期推送，我在两个展厅来回穿梭、看得头昏眼花，也没能找齐所有的章纹。大家可以自己去国博试试，祝好运！ ▲（霸总明示分享收藏点赞在看~） Photos courtesy of Palace Museum, Shenyang Palace Museum and National Museum of China图片致谢故宫博物院，沈阳故宫博物院和国家博物馆 Have a nice weekend~
